Black Sand Dive Retreat

Dive resort · Indonesia · Lembeh Strait, North Sulawesi · Official Website
The resort in its coconut grove above the bay, from the air

Booking by Tour Leader Club

1 room type · house reef

TL

Black Sand Dive Retreat is seven bungalows across three hectares of coconut plantation above Kambahu Bay, fronted by its own black sand beach. It opened in 2007 and has stuck to one principle ever since: the fewer people, the better the diving.

A maximum of fourteen guests in the whole resort and no more than four divers per boat, where the neighbours load eight, twelve or more. Fewer people over a critter, less sand kicked up, more time for the shot.

Kambahu Bay sits right in the middle of the strait’s best muck sites: most of them are under ten minutes away by speedboat. And directly off the beach lies the house reef, which takes in the established sites Hairball 3, TK1 and TK2. There is no current, it can be dived at any hour, and it is remarkable at night. In December 2018 the German magazine Tauchen listed it among the forty best house reefs in the world, and the ichthyologist Gerry Allen called it “Shrimp Goby Heaven”.

The property is open and elevated, so it catches the breeze — cooler than down at sea level, and noticeably fewer mosquitoes. The road from Bitung to the gate is well-surfaced tarmac, so the transfer from Manado airport takes an hour and no boat ride is needed, which is unusual for Lembeh.

The kitchen works à la carte, not buffet: a short menu that changes daily, cooked to order and served hot. Next to the restaurant there is a foot-shaped freshwater pool with loungers and umbrellas.

Rates are quoted on request only: packages are priced in euro per person and cover transfers, accommodation, full board and boat dives.

No markup

You pay exactly the rate the resort publishes. On top of that, only the actual bank costs of currency conversion and the international transfer — no commission of ours.

We run the deal

Correspondence with the resort, holding the room, the contract, booking confirmation and all paperwork are on our side. There is nothing for you to arrange yourself.

Card payment

We accept payment by card through Stripe and issue an invoice. The transfer to the resort is our job — you do not have to find a way to pay abroad.

Support all the way

We help you choose the room and dates, work out the dive package, answer questions about flights and gear, and stay in touch until you are home.

The exact amount is confirmed when we hold your booking: it includes the resort's rate at the day's exchange rate plus the actual transfer costs. No hidden fees.

About the resort

Country
Indonesia
Location
Lembeh Strait, North Sulawesi
Nearest airport
Manado (MDC) — an hour by car on the Manado–Bitung toll road
Transfer
Included in the package, both ways
House reef
Yes — the Hairball 3, TK1 and TK2 sites lie directly off the beach; one free self-guided house reef dive for every two paid boat dives
Dive centre
In-house dive centre with a camera room, two compressors and a nitrox blending system
Nitrox
Available on request
Rooms
7 bungalows, a maximum of 14 guests
Staff
No more than 4 divers per boat
Internet
Free in the bungalows and the main building

At the resort

Private black sand beach
Freshwater pool with loungers and umbrellas
Restaurant overlooking Kambahu Bay
Lounge with sofas in the main building
Dive centre with individual equipment cubicles
Fan-cooled camera room
220 V and 110 V outlets at the camera stations
Rinse tanks for gear and for camera equipment
Briefing centre and rental equipment room
Air conditioning and a ceiling fan in the bungalows
Walk-in closet and room safe
Walled semi-open garden bathroom with hot water
Drinking water, tea and coffee in the bungalow
Laundry service

Diving

No more than 4 divers per boat
Most sites under 10 minutes away
Hairball 3, TK1 and TK2 house reef off the beach
Free self-guided house reef dives
Three separate boat departures a day
Night boat dives on request
Nitrox on request
Camera room with 220 V and 110 V outlets
Water averaging 28 °C
Visibility averaging 10–15 metres

The first boat leaves at 8:00, the second at 11:00, the third at 14:30, and night dives go on request between 17:30 and 18:00. Every departure is out-and-back, so you are not obliged to do the morning dives — sleeping in with a late breakfast is a real option. Bottom time on boat dives is kept to 75 minutes so the schedule holds and surface intervals stay safe. Staff clean your gear at the end of the day and hang it in your own locker, then have the BCD and regulator assembled and aboard the boat the next morning. The house reef is open from 8am to 8pm: with two paid boat dives you get one free self-guided house reef dive a day, and three-dive packages get unlimited access. Solo diving is prohibited by local law, so you dive with a buddy; a guide for the house reef can be booked on request. Regulars on the house reef include nine species of frogfish, eight of octopus, cuttlefish, squid, seahorses, five kinds of ghost pipefish, stargazers, bamboo and coral cat sharks, banggai cardinalfish, morays, snake eels and ribbon eels. Divers rarely go deeper than fifteen metres.

Food

A short à la carte menu, not a buffet
The menu changes daily
Cooked to order and served hot
Restaurant overlooking Kambahu Bay
Morning and afternoon snacks
Welcome drink and fruit basket
Drinking water, tea and coffee in the bungalow
Lounge with sofas and WiFi

Lunch is ordered right after breakfast, so it is ready when you get back from the dive and there is still time to relax before the afternoon departure. In the evening the bay fills with the lanterns of fishing canoes — that is the view from the restaurant, surrounded by flowering trees and palms. Alcohol, soft drinks and juices after breakfast are charged separately.

Beyond diving

Foot-shaped freshwater pool
Black sand beach
Tangkoko National Park
Lounge with sofas and WiFi

The pool is a few steps from the restaurant, with a shower, umbrellas and shade for anyone avoiding the sun. The main trip ashore is Tangkoko National Park, which offers the best chance anywhere of seeing the spectral tarsier, the smallest primate on the planet, along with the endemic black crested macaque and cuscus. Unlike most parks in Southeast Asia the wildlife is easy to see, helped by the rangers visitors are required to take along.

Rooms

Standalone bungalow

View: Kambahu Bay and the Lembeh Strait

Seven bungalows, each looking out over Kambahu Bay and the Lembeh Strait. The bedroom has air conditioning and a ceiling fan, with drinking water, tea and coffee to hand. There is a walk-in closet for luggage and gear and a safe for valuables. The bathroom is walled and semi-open onto its own garden, with a hot water shower.

View over the bay and the strait Air conditioning and a ceiling fan Walk-in closet for luggage Room safe Walled semi-open garden bathroom Hot water shower Drinking water, tea and coffee Free WiFi Laundry service at extra cost

When to go

Best time
Year-round — the strait is sheltered, though some critters are seasonal
Water temperature
Averaging 28 °C
Visibility
Averaging 10–15 metres, occasionally up to 30

The Lembeh Strait is sheltered from the open sea, so it can be dived all year; what changes is the cast of critters, which differs from month to month. The water averages 28 °C, but the dives are many, shallow and therefore long, so the resort recommends a full wetsuit. Thermoclines move through from time to time, which is a good thing: cold upwellings spur mating cycles in nudibranchs, pipefish and other species. Visibility is lower than on ocean reefs — 10–15 metres on average, sometimes less, sometimes a full thirty. The reason is the same as the reason for the abundance of life: the water is rich in nutrients. Clarity generally improves as you head north from mid-island into more open water. For macro none of this matters — the attractions are viewed from close quarters.

Getting there

The nearest airport is Sam Ratulangi (MDC) in Manado. The resort is an hour by car on the new Manado–Bitung toll road; the stretch from Bitung to the gate is good tarmac, and no boat ride is needed.

The most direct international route is via Singapore: Scoot, the budget arm of Singapore Airlines, flies to Manado four times a week (Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday), 3.5 hours in the air. In August 2024 AirAsia restarted its Kuala Lumpur — Kota Kinabalu — Manado route. Domestically there are daily flights from Jakarta, three hours, some of them direct, as well as from Denpasar and other cities.

The 30-day Visa on Arrival is the usual option and is open to citizens of sixty countries (as of 30 May 2022). At the airport you need a passport valid for more than six months from the date of arrival, a return ticket, the visa fee of IDR 500,000 (card or cash) and proof of travel insurance covering at least USD 20,000. Entry rules keep changing, and the resort advises checking before you fly.

Malaria and dengue fever exist in North Sulawesi but are rarely contracted in coastal locations thanks to the onshore breeze. There are few mosquitoes on the property, and spray and coils are provided in the bungalows; the resort suggests bringing repellent and covered clothing for the evening, and consulting a doctor in advance about anti-malarials.

Mains voltage is 220–240 V with two round-prong sockets; the camera room has both 220 V and 110 V outlets plus adapters. On site you can pay by Visa or Mastercard, or in cash in rupiah, euros and — only if immaculate — US dollars, since Indonesian banks refuse notes that are old, damaged, marked or even folded. Bitung has ATMs.

Included in the price

Roundtrip airport transfers
Accommodation
Dinner on arrival day, three meals daily and breakfast on departure day
Morning and afternoon snacks
Welcome drink and fruit basket
Drinking water, tea and coffee in the bungalow
Free WiFi
Guided boat dives on air, including tanks and weights
One free self-guided house reef dive a day for every two paid boat dives
Government tax

Not included

Flights to Manado
Alcohol, soft drinks and juices after breakfast
Equipment rental
Nitrox
Telephone calls
Laundry service
Gratuities

Price on request

Black Sand Dive Retreat

Guests
2
Room Any room

Availability for your dates will be confirmed before any payment. Estimated wait time — 24 hours

Black Sand Dive Retreat

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Black Sand Dive Retreat

Black Sand Dive Retreat

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