Pole Pole Bungalows

Dive resort · Tanzania · Utende Beach, Chole Bay, Mafia Island · Official Website

Three bungalows with private plunge pools above Chole Bay

A table under a white canopy on white sand by turquoise water

The lodge beach with makuti umbrellas and sun beds

The pool in the Alasiri Garden surrounded by coconut palms

Booking by Tour Leader Club

5 room types · Reefs of Chole Bay and Mafia Island Marine Park dive sites · house reef

Pole pole is Kiswahili for “slowly, slowly”, and here it is a timetable rather than a slogan. Engines go off and the sail goes up, no music plays in the restaurant, and the rhythm is set by the moon, the tides, the sun and the seasons.

Twelve bungalows stand in a tropical garden above Chole Bay, the heart of Mafia Island Marine Park. The lodge is deliberately not fenced off from what surrounds it: local materials, makuti roofs, staff and suppliers from the neighbouring villages.

The bungalows differ. Five Bahari suit a couple or a solo traveller and come with a Zanzibari daybed on the verandah. Two Asali are family bungalows for four, with two sleeping rooms separated by a corridor. Three Jua suites look out over the bay from above, each with its own pool and bar. Alasiri sits right on the beach and Alfajiri hides in the greenery — both with private pools.

The kitchen is a reason in itself: three courses, produce from island fishermen and farmers, and an Italian touch in the plating. Lunch may be laid out on a sandbank, dinner on the beach under a canopy or in candlelit tents.

Diving is run by neighbouring Mafia Island Diving, a couple of minutes’ walk away. The reefs of Chole Bay sit shallower than thirty metres, whale sharks pass the island from August to March, and turtle hatchlings emerge on Juani from June to August.

The pool in the Alasiri Garden echoes an old dhow, with weathered parts of real sailing boats built into it. A bar and shade sit beside it, and the Alasiri Spa is down on the ocean front.

No markup

You pay exactly the rate the resort publishes. On top of that, only the actual bank costs of currency conversion and the international transfer — no commission of ours.

We run the deal

Correspondence with the resort, holding the room, the contract, booking confirmation and all paperwork are on our side. There is nothing for you to arrange yourself.

Card payment

We accept payment by card through Stripe and issue an invoice. The transfer to the resort is our job — you do not have to find a way to pay abroad.

Support all the way

We help you choose the room and dates, work out the dive package, answer questions about flights and gear, and stay in touch until you are home.

The exact amount is confirmed when we hold your booking: it includes the resort's rate at the day's exchange rate plus the actual transfer costs. No hidden fees.

About the resort

Country: Tanzania
Location: Utende Beach, Chole Bay, Mafia Island
Nearest airport: Mafia (MFA), Kilindoni — 12 km, 20–30 minutes
Transfer: Included for non-resident guests
House reef: Chole Bay — marine park reefs minutes from the beach
Dive sites: Reefs of Chole Bay and Mafia Island Marine Park
Dive centre: Mafia Island Diving, a partner PADI centre a short walk away
Rooms: 12 bungalows and suites
Staff: Four divers per guide on dives
Internet: Yes
Languages: English, Italian, Kiswahili

At the resort

Dhow-shaped pool in the Alasiri Garden

Bar and shaded seating by the pool

Alasiri Spa on the ocean front

Restaurant with no music, three courses

Lunches on the sandbanks

Beach dinners under a canopy and in tents

Own stretch of Utende Beach

Bungalows set in a tropical garden

Beach basket and towels in every room

Air conditioning and fan in every room

Inaya toiletries in the bathrooms

Wi-Fi across the lodge

Complimentary laundry

Safe and desk in every room

PADI dive centre two minutes' walk away

Diving

Reefs of Mafia Island Marine Park

Chole Bay — a sheltered bay with calm water

Over 400 fish species in the marine park

Shore dives and boat dives

Night dives with torch

Nitrox and PADI specialities

Courses from Discover Scuba to Divemaster

Private guide for the day on request

Four divers per guide

Full equipment rental

Underwater photo and video

Snorkelling on the same reefs

Diving is run by Mafia Island Diving, open since 2012 and a couple of minutes' walk from the lodge. The guides speak English and French. Mafia Island Marine Park is Tanzania's first, 821 km² with more than four hundred fish species. Dive prices include tanks, weights and a guide; equipment and computers are rented separately. Dive packages cannot be shared between guests and prepaid dives are non-refundable.

Dining

Three courses at lunch and dinner

Produce from island fishermen and farmers

An Italian accent in the cooking

Breakfast at 7:30, lunch at 13:00, dinner at 19:30

Romantic beach dinner for two

Lunch on a sandbank

Candlelit dinner in tents

A selected range of wines, beers and cocktails

Vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free menus

No music in the restaurant

Almost everything that reaches the table is grown or caught on the island — this is how the lodge supports the neighbouring villages and avoids imported produce. Dietary needs and allergies are best flagged in advance. Every excursion comes with water, tea, coffee and snacks.

Beyond diving

Swimming with whale sharks from August to March

Humpback whale watching from August to October

Turtle hatching trips from June to August

Snorkelling in the marine park

Sunset cruise under sail

Picnic on Marimbani sandbank

Mange sandbank

Blue Lagoon and Juani Channel

Kua Ruins on Juani Island

Walking tour of Chole Island

Utende village next to the lodge

Lighthouse and hippos

Bird watching

Mlola Forest

Miewe Island and Darusi

Alasiri Spa — massage on the ocean front

Pool in the Alasiri Garden

Water-based trips depend on the tide and the weather, so they are booked on site. The Chole Island walk, the lighthouse and Kua Lagoon carry a community fee of USD 5 per person, plus USD 5 for the Kua Ruins. The turtle trip includes USD 10 for Sea Sense. Whale shark swims are run by independent operators. The spa is open from 9:30 to 19:30, with the last treatment at 18:30.

Rooms

Bahari Bungalow

View: Tropical garden and Chole Bay

Beds: Double bed or two singles

Five bungalows for a couple or a solo guest. A bed under a mosquito net, a high makuti ceiling, wooden shutters and a verandah with a Zanzibari daybed that tends to swallow half the day. The bathroom has a shower, a large basin and a bidet.

Air conditioning and ceiling fan Verandah with a Zanzibari daybed Mosquito net over the bed Shower, large basin, bidet Kettle, tea and coffee, drinking water Inaya toiletries Safe, desk, wardrobe Beach basket, towels and umbrella

Asali Family Bungalow

View: Tropical garden and Chole Bay

Beds: Double bed plus two singles in a separate room

Two family bungalows for four. The double bedroom and the twin room are separated by a corridor, so adults and children stay out of each other's way. Bungalow no. 7 is slightly larger. Both share a long verandah facing the garden and the water.

Two sleeping areas either side of a corridor Air conditioning and ceiling fan Verandah with armchairs and a daybed Mosquito nets over the beds Shower, large basin, bidet Kettle, tea and coffee, drinking water Safe, desk, wardrobe Beach basket, towels and umbrella

Alasiri Family Suite

View: Beach and Chole Bay

Beds: Double bed plus extra sleeping places

The only suite standing directly on the beach. A large room with a canopy bed and a sofa area, a private plunge pool, a private bar and sun beds by the water. Works for a family of four or a couple who want more space.

Private plunge pool Private bar and small fridge Sofas and sun beds Directly on the beach Air conditioning and ceiling fan Shower, large basin, bidet Safe, desk, wardrobe Beach basket, towels and umbrella

Alfajiri Suite

View: Garden and Chole Bay

Beds: Double bed

A suite for two tucked into the greenery. Its own plunge pool with sun beds under the palms, a private bar, a dressing area and a large bathroom. The quietest room at the lodge — it goes to couples.

Private plunge pool with sun beds Private bar and small fridge Two guests only Dressing area and large bathroom Air conditioning and ceiling fan Shower, large basin, bidet Safe, desk, wardrobe Beach basket, towels and umbrella

Jua Seaview Suite

View: Chole Bay from above

Beds: Double bed, third bed possible

Three suites set on the rise, where the whole of Chole Bay opens up. Each has its own plunge pool, bar and terrace. Inside — a canopy bed, sofas and tall windows facing the sea.

Private plunge pool and terrace Private bar and small fridge Panoramic view over Chole Bay Up to three guests Air conditioning and ceiling fan Shower, large basin, bidet Safe, desk, wardrobe Beach basket, towels and umbrella

Rates

Island excursions

Price
Chole Island walk	USD 20
Kua Ruins	USD 35
Blue Lagoon and Juani Channel	USD 35
Utende village	USD 5
Marimbani sunset	USD 30
Bird watching	USD 15
Lighthouse and hippos	USD 70
Mlola Forest walk	On request
Full island adventure	On request
Ras Kisimani	On request

Prices per person in US dollars, valid until 30 March 2028. Water, tea, coffee and snacks are included. A community fee is charged separately — USD 5 for Chole Island, the lighthouse and Kua Lagoon, plus USD 5 for the Kua Ruins.

Sea trips

Price
Snorkelling	USD 30
Sunset cruise under sail	USD 30
Marimbani sandbank	USD 50
Mange sandbank	USD 65
Miewe Island and Darusi	USD 45
Turtle hatching, June to August	USD 45
Whale sharks, August to March	USD 70–100
Humpback whales, August to October	USD 95–145

Prices per person in US dollars. Water-based trips depend on the tide and the weather and are booked on site. Mange sandbank needs a minimum of six people. Turtle watching includes USD 10 for Sea Sense. Whale shark swims are run by independent operators, hence two prices.

Diving

Price
Shore dive	USD 50
Single boat dive	USD 75
Double boat dive	USD 105
6-dive package	USD 300
10-dive package	USD 460
Mange sandbank plus one dive	USD 125
Night dive surcharge, torch included	USD 25
Refresher dive surcharge	USD 25
Private guide for the day	USD 100

Mafia Island Diving prices in US dollars. Tanks, weights and a guide are included. Dive packages cannot be shared between guests and unused prepaid dives are not refunded.

Equipment rental

Price
Full equipment, torch and computer excluded	USD 25
Fins, mask and snorkel	USD 10
Wetsuit	USD 10
Regulator	USD 10
BCD	USD 10
Dive computer	USD 15
Torch	USD 15
Underwater camera	USD 60

Prices per day in US dollars.

PADI courses

Price
Discover Scuba Diving, one dive	USD 150
Discover Scuba Diving, two dives	USD 200
Scuba Diver, 2–3 days	USD 400
Open Water Diver, 4 days	USD 550
Open Water referral	USD 355
Advanced Open Water, 2–3 days	USD 500
Emergency First Response, 1 day	USD 115
Rescue Diver, 2 days	USD 465
Divemaster	USD 1,500
Night Diver speciality, 3 dives	USD 340
Deep Diver speciality, 4 dives	USD 435
Underwater photography, 2 dives	USD 260
Enriched Air Nitrox	USD 150
Peak Performance Buoyancy, 2 dives	USD 260

Prices in US dollars.

Alasiri Spa

Single	Couple
Swedish massage, 60 minutes	USD 50	USD 80
Deep tissue massage, 60 minutes	USD 50	USD 80
Back and neck, 30 minutes	USD 30	USD 50
Foot and leg, 30 minutes	USD 30	USD 50

Prices in US dollars. The spa is open from 9:30 to 19:30, last treatment at 18:30. The second price is for a couple's treatment.

Rates and availability can change. Message us — we will confirm current dates and prices.

When to go

Best time: June to March; the lodge closes from the day after Easter Monday until 31 May

The hot season runs from October to March, the rains fall in April and May, and June to September is cooler. **The lodge is closed from the day after Easter Monday until 31 May.** High season is 15 July to 31 August, 1 October to 15 November and 20 December to 15 February. Low season is 1–30 September, 16 November to 19 December and 16 February to 14 July. Whale sharks pass from August to March, humpback whales from August to October, and turtle hatchlings emerge from June to August. Children under six are not accepted.

Getting there

Mafia Island lies south of Dar es Salaam. Fly into Dar es Salaam, then take a light aircraft to Kilindoni airstrip on Mafia: 35 minutes from Dar es Salaam, 45 minutes from Zanzibar or the Selous. Coastal Aviation, Auric Air and Safari Airlink fly the route.

Kilindoni is 12 km from the lodge, a 20–30 minute drive. The transfer is included for non-resident guests.

The lodge sits inside Mafia Island Marine Park. The park fee is paid by card at the gate — USD 23.6 per person per day.

Sockets are UK type, 220–240 V. The lodge takes no cash: bills are settled by Visa or Mastercard, gratuities in cash. Accommodation is paid by bank transfer before arrival.